Chikankari isn’t just embroidery—it’s a story, a legacy, and a labor of love. Originating in the heart of Lucknow, this intricate hand embroidery is more than just delicate stitches on fabric. At Alankrit, it carries centuries of tradition, passed down through generations of skilled artisans.
The word Chikan comes from the Persian term Chikeen, meaning embroidery, but its essence goes far beyond that. Each stitch is a testament to patience, precision, and pure artistry. The craft demands unwavering dedication, as artisans spend days, sometimes weeks, carefully hand-embroidering patterns that reflect both culture and creativity.
But have you ever wondered how this beautiful art is created? The process of Chikankari is as mesmerizing as the embroidery itself. It all begins with designing the motifs, which are then block-printed onto the fabric using a washable dye. Skilled artisans then hand-embroider over these patterns using fine needlework, bringing each design to life with delicate stitches. This meticulous process is what gives Chikankari Sarees their unique charm and elegance. Once the embroidery is complete, the fabric undergoes careful washing to remove the print, leaving behind only the stunning handwork.
Now that we understand Chikankari is so much more than just embroidery, let’s take a closer look at the step-by-step process that brings this beautiful art to life.
1. Fabric Selection – Not Just Any Cloth, But the Perfect One!
Lucknowi Chikankari is a delicate hand-embroidery technique that requires the right fabric to truly enhance its beauty. The texture, drape, and breathability of the fabric play a crucial role in bringing out the finest details of the embroidery.
Best Fabrics for Chikankari Embroidery– Because Every Thread Matters!
- Cotton: A soft, breathable fabric that holds dye well. High-quality cotton fabrics like mulmul or voile are commonly used for their lightweight feel and comfort.
- Silk: A luxurious fabric with a natural sheen that contrasts beautifully with the delicate threadwork. Pure silk is preferred for its graceful drape and rich appearance.
- Mulmul: A fine blend of cotton and silk, known for its airy and lightweight texture, making it perfect for Chikankari.
- Kota: A light, breezy fabric that allows the embroidery to stand out, ideal for summer wear.
2. Design Creation – Where Art Meets Fabric
The beauty of Lucknowi Chikankari lies in its intricate design process. Every pattern starts with a vision, which is carefully transferred onto fabric through block printing before skilled artisans bring it to life with delicate hand stitches. This artistry is beautifully reflected in Chikankari Suits, where each stitch enhances the elegance and charm of the attire.
The designs often feature elements inspired by nature—flowers, paisleys, and graceful vines—each telling a story through threadwork.
The Chikankari Process – A Labor of Love
- Block Printing: The journey begins with wooden blocks dipped in a temporary dye to imprint delicate patterns onto the fabric.
- Stitching: The printed fabric is then stretched on a frame, allowing artisans to meticulously stitch over the designs using fine threads.
- Pattern Creation: Without cutting the fabric, artisans create lace-like patterns by skillfully manipulating the threads, adding depth and texture to the design.
Motifs – The Soul of Chikankari
- Flowers & Paisleys: These timeless motifs reflect the harmony of nature and are a signature of Lucknowi Chikankari.
- Mukesh Work: A special technique where metallic embellishments are integrated into the embroidery, enhancing the design with a subtle shimmer.
Stitches – The Art of Threadwork
- Bakhia (Shadow Work): A unique herringbone stitch that creates a delicate shadow effect, making the embroidery appear as if it is floating on the fabric.
- Murri & Phanda: These small, intricate knotted stitches add texture and dimension, giving Chikankari its signature depth.
- Ghas Patti: A fine, leaf-like stitch that adds an elegant touch, commonly used in floral patterns.
- Jaali: A delicate, net-like stitch that creates a lace effect, demonstrating the craftsmanship and precision of the artisans.
Lucknowi Chikankari is more than embroidery—it’s poetry stitched onto fabric, preserving the timeless charm of handcrafted excellence!
3. Cutting & Styling – The Foundation of Chikankari Magic
Before a masterpiece is embroidered, it needs a perfect canvas! Fabric cutting and styling lay the groundwork for Chikankari, ensuring every piece is shaped to complement the intricate embroidery that follows. Skilled tailors carefully measure and cut the fabric, transforming it into a blank slate ready to be adorned with heritage craftsmanship.
Understanding the Essence of Chikankari
Originating from Lucknow, India, Chikankari is a time-honored embroidery style that celebrates intricate handwork. The word “Chikankari” literally translates to “embroidery” and involves a meticulous process of designing, engraving, block-printing, embroidery, and washing.
Floral motifs dominate this art form, with the Phanda stitch being a signature element known for its precision and delicacy.
Beyond Cutting – The Steps That Bring Chikankari to Life
- Once cut, the fabric undergoes a careful running stitch to prepare it for embroidery.
- It is then dipped in a special dye solution of glue and indigo to create a faint yet lasting outline.
- Pattern blocks, dipped in dye, emboss the design onto the fabric, guiding artisans for embroidery.
- The backstitch forms the skeletal outline, bringing the design to the forefront.
- Various stitches are then layered in, adding dimension, texture, and an undeniable charm to the final piece.
Each step is a delicate dance between tradition and craftsmanship, ensuring that every piece of Chikankari tells a story of skill, patience, and timeless beauty.
4. Carving Tradition – The Art of Wooden Blocks in Chikankari
Ever wondered how those intricate Chikankari designs come to life? It all begins with the hands of skilled artisans who carve magic into wood, a process known as chhapai or block printing. These wooden blocks are not just tools; they are storytellers of centuries-old craftsmanship.
The Process – Where Precision Meets Passion
- Masters of the Craft: Talented artisans, called thappagars, meticulously carve designs into wooden blocks.
- Choosing the Right Wood: Shissoo wood is preferred for its durability yet easy-to-carve nature.
- Refinement & Detailing: The blocks are dried, sanded, and trimmed to the perfect size and thickness.
- Design Transfer: A white emulsion or chalk is applied, and the design is delicately traced.
- Chiseling the Magic: Using a specialized iron tool called a kalam, artisans etch intricate patterns onto the block.
- Final Touch: The block is smoothed and flattened with a wooden bar, ensuring precision in every imprint.
Why These Wooden Blocks Matter
These blocks are the heart of Chikankari, carrying forward an age-old legacy of craftsmanship.
Each carved block embodies the skill and dedication passed down through generations of artisans.
The uniqueness of each piece starts here, with designs infused with history, elegance, and soul.
What Comes Next?
- The finished blocks are dipped in color solutions and pressed onto fabric, marking the blueprint for needlework.
- Skilled experts then hand-stitch over the prints, breathing life into the designs with needle and thread.
- From wood to wardrobe, these blocks bridge the past with the present, ensuring every Chikankari piece is nothing short of a masterpiece!
5. From Blocks to Fabric – The Art of Printing in Chikankari
Ever thought about how those mesmerizing Chikankari patterns get transferred onto fabric? It all begins with chapai – the traditional block-printing technique that sets the foundation for every embroidered masterpiece.
The Process – Where Precision Meets Art
- Design Selection: A carefully chosen design, inspired by nature and Mughal architecture, is finalized for printing.
- Carving the Block: Expert artisans carve the intricate design onto Sheesham or Rosewood blocks.
- Dye Preparation: The block is dipped in a dye solution made from glue and indigo, ensuring sharp imprints.
- Printing the Fabric: The block is pressed onto semi-stitched fabric, transferring the design onto the textile.
- Embroidery Begins: Once the print is set, skilled artisans meticulously embroider over the design with fine stitches.
6. What Designs Come to Life?
- Nature-Inspired Motifs: Mango, palm leaves, grass stalks, floral vines.
- Geometric Patterns: Diamonds, squares, and intricate abstract shapes.
- Signature Chikan Stitches: Bakhiya, Phanda, Keel Kangan, Pechni, and more bring depth and texture to the embroidery.
This fusion of block printing and embroidery is what makes Lucknowi Chikankari a true work of art – where tradition, skill, and heritage are stitched together in every piece!
7. The Magic of 32 Stitches – The Soul of Chikankari
Did you know that Lucknowi Chikankari embroidery is brought to life with 32 different stitches? Each stitch has a unique purpose, adding texture, depth, and elegance to the fabric. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic ones:
Intricate Stitches That Define Chikankari
- Bakhiya (Shadow Stitch): A delicate stitch done on the reverse side of the fabric, creating a soft shadow effect.
- Tepchi: A simple yet stunning running stitch using six strands of thread on the right side of the fabric.
- Phanda: Tiny, knotted stitches that resemble pearls, often used to create floral buds.
- Jaali: An airy, net-like stitch that gives a lace effect without cutting the fabric.
- Murri: A grain-shaped stitch, often used in the center of flowers, adding a fine 3D effect.
- Kauri: A circular eyelet stitch that allows the fabric to breathe, making it perfect for warmer climates.
- Hool: A hole-punch stitch that separates the threads, often used for floral motifs.
- Janjeera: A chain stitch used to create decorative borders and intricate detailing.
- Keel Kangan: A twisted stitch that outlines petals and leaves, adding dimension.
- Phool: A floral stitch that enhances the overall beauty of the embroidery.
Why These Stitches Matter
Each Chikankari stitch carries a legacy of craftsmanship, transforming simple fabrics into wearable works of art. Whether it’s the delicate Bakhiya or the bold Keel Kangan, every thread tells a story of heritage, skill, and passion.
This is what makes Lucknowi Chikankari an everlasting treasure – a celebration of embroidery at its finest!
8. The Final Touch – The Art of Washing Chikankari
Once the delicate Lucknowi Chikankari embroidery is completed, it undergoes a crucial washing process to remove the temporary blue block print and reveal the true beauty of the handcrafted stitches. This final step enhances the fabric’s texture, making it crisp, elegant, and ready to wear.
At Alankrit, every Chikankari piece is made with dedication, and caring for it the right way ensures its beauty lasts for years. Here’s how we recommend washing your authentic Lucknowi Chikankari garments:
Step-by-Step Washing Process
- Hand Wash Only: Use cold water and a mild detergent to gently cleanse the fabric.
- No Wringing or Twisting: Avoid wringing the fabric, as it can weaken the delicate embroidery.
- Gentle Rinse: Lightly agitate the water, then rinse thoroughly without scrubbing.
- Stain Removal with Care: For stains, soak the garment in a mild detergent solution and use a soft-bristle brush to lightly remove spots.
- Final Rinse & Drying: Rinse with clean water and let the fabric dry naturally in shade to maintain its original charm.
Why This Process?
- Protects the Hand Embroidery: Prevents delicate Chikankari threads from loosening.
- Preserves Fabric Quality: Cold water keeps the fabric soft and prevents shrinkage.
- Maintains the Authentic Look: Harsh washing can fade or distort the intricate needlework.
Every Chikankari piece from Alankrit carries the legacy of skilled artisans. Following these steps will help maintain its elegance, just as it was meant to be!
9. Bringing Colors to Life – The Art of Dyeing in Chikankari
The beauty of Lucknowi Chikankari embroidery isn’t just in the stitches but also in the dyeing process, which breathes vibrancy into each handcrafted masterpiece. The fabric is carefully dyed to enhance the embroidery and create mesmerizing hues that remain timeless.
How is Chikankari Dyed?
- Dye Solution: The fabric is immersed in a carefully prepared dye bath, often containing glue and indigo, to ensure even absorption.
- Pattern Blocks: Dye-dipped wooden blocks imprint intricate designs onto the fabric.
- Embroidery Begins: Artisans meticulously embroider over the dyed fabric, bringing the patterns to life.
- Washing: The fabric is soaked and cleaned to remove any excess dye, ensuring a flawless finish.
- Starching & Pressing: The final touch includes starching and ironing to give the fabric a refined texture and rigidity.
Factors That Influence Dyeing
- Temperature: The dyeing temperature affects the depth and richness of the color.
- Time: The longer the fabric stays in the dye, the deeper the shade.
- Light Exposure: Lighting conditions can impact the final color outcome.
Types of Dyes Used in Chikankari
- Natural Dyes: Extracted from plants, flowers, and minerals, these dyes give an organic and earthy appeal.
- Man-Made Dyes: These synthetic dyes offer a wider range of colors and better colorfastness.
From delicate pastels to rich jewel tones, dyeing in Chikankari is a blend of science and artistry, ensuring that every piece remains a true reflection of heritage and elegance.
10. Ensuring Perfection – The Art of Quality Checking in Chikankari
Every handcrafted Lucknowi Chikankari piece is a labor of love, and maintaining its authenticity requires a meticulous quality check. From raw material selection to the final inspection, every step ensures that you receive a product that truly reflects heritage and craftsmanship.
Steps in the Quality Check Process
- Raw Material Selection: Only the finest cotton, silk, muslin, or georgette fabrics are chosen, ensuring they are free of defects for an impeccable finish.
- In-Process Checks: During embroidery, artisans continuously inspect the stitches, ensuring uniformity, pattern accuracy, and color fastness.
- Final Inspection: Before the saree or garment is ready for sale, each piece is checked for loose threads, stains, or marks, ensuring the embroidery perfectly aligns with the design.
- Secure Packaging: To preserve the fabric’s beauty, protective packaging is used for safe transit.
How to Identify Authentic Lucknowi Chikankari?
- Know the Maker: Genuine Chikankari is crafted by skilled Lucknowi artisans, not mass-produced.
- Feel the Fabric: Authentic Chikankari is made from pure, breathable fabrics like cotton, silk, and georgette—fakes often use synthetic materials.
- Test the Dye: Traditional Chikankari is dyed with natural dyes, whereas fake versions may fade quickly due to synthetic colors.
A true Chikankari masterpiece is not just an outfit—it’s a symbol of timeless heritage and skilled artistry. When you choose authentic Lucknowi Chikankari, you wear a piece of history!
11. The Final Touch – Finishing in Lucknowi Chikankari
A handcrafted Chikankari piece is a work of art, but before it reaches you, it undergoes a final finishing process that enhances its elegance and durability.
Steps in the Finishing Process
- Washing: The fabric is gently washed to remove any residual dyes or block prints, leaving it fresh and clean.
- Pressing: This step softens the fabric, ensuring the embroidery retains its delicate texture.
- Ironing: The fabric is ironed to give it a smooth, polished look, making it ready for wear.
- Packing: Carefully folded and packed to preserve its beauty before reaching you.
Why Finishing is Important?
A Chikankari piece goes through weeks of intricate hand embroidery, and finishing ensures that the final product reflects the grace and authenticity of this age-old craft.
Other Key Steps in the Chikankari Process
- Block Printing: The initial design is printed onto the fabric using handcrafted blocks.
- Stitching: Artisans meticulously embroider the design using different Chikankari stitches.
- Fixing to a Frame: The fabric is secured in a frame to ensure precision while stitching.
Whether on pure cotton, silk, or georgette, an authentic Lucknowi Chikankari piece is a testament to patience, skill, and heritage—ready to become a treasured part of your wardrobe!
Final Thoughts
At Alankrit, we follow a detailed process to make Chikankari Suits and Chikankari Sarees. From the careful selection of fabric to the finishing touches, every step is done with precision to bring you authentic Lucknowi Chikankari.